sue allen: That's one of the saddest dogs i've ever seen  Nice shot.

 

Here's one:

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DcMag gallery

Nice Shot.Cockburn St In Edinburgh

After having a look about i have readjusted this one

 

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life is too serious!!!!!!!

Please leave comments Good or Bad on my portfolio or visit my Flickr account

http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnny45908

http://community.dcmag.co.uk/photos/taxijas_gallery/default.aspx

some great conversions here.

Here's the one I've had a go with, taken with the wifes compact when on a recent visit to London.  Tried to follow some tips from the mag but not sure the grain works - if you can see it.

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My DCM Gallery

Anyone used of of these?

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I thought this might convert into a B&W to fit the theme. Not sure whether it works.

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http://ciphotography.freehostia.com/index.php

Waiting for Alfred Hitchcock.

Or maybe Sean Connery

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what we have here...is a failure to communicate

Mygallery

flckr

"Under the pier"

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Galleries: Monochrome : The best

Craig_1591:

Anyone used of of these?

Yep. Although I have the Zorki-4K, it's essentially the same, the only real difference being the 4K has a wind-on lever. The model you have is known as a type 2, and was made for exporting. My only real gripe with these is the shutter speed dial, the settings are too near to each other to be really accurate. All that being said...

Keep the camera unfired for any length of time, and keep the shutter speed dial on 1/6th or faster. This is due to the way these cameras get the slower shutter speeds, the slower shutter speeds have to have some springs and/or cogs tensioned up. Once these are tensioned, keeping the shutter like this for any real length of time will strain the springs. And before anyone laughs at Russian camera designs, this is true for most mechanical cameras.

Also, before you set the shutter speed, wind on first. Once the shutter's fired, the selector dial will spin round to some other setting. This is normal, but will have the selector pointer pointing at the wrong setting. Wind on, the selector dial will rotate back to the last (and correct) shutter speed setting.

Focussing, as with any other Zorki, after the Zorki-2, is done with the split image in the viewfinder itself. Turn the focussing ring on the lens until both the split image and the actual viewfinder image line up. The lens is then in focus.

Exposure? If you don't have a handheld light meter, use the "Sunny 16" (or "Sunny 11") methods. Set the lens aperture to f/16 (or f/11 for "Sunny 11"), set the shutter speed to the speed of your film, you're good to go.

The lens mount is known as LTM, or "Leica thread mount". Any LTM or L39 lens will fit the camera. Remember that the viewfinder is only set at 50mm, but there are multi-turret viewfinders available as accessories. Also remember that a few lenses don't have the necessary rangefinder focussing coupling, but these are mainly wide-angle lenses, really no need for accurate focussing with those lenses.

As you see, there's quite a bit to take in with a rangefinder camera. Visit the "FSU" section of the Rangfinder Forum... there's just so much more information available... including repairing the camera if need be.

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Galleries: Monochrome : The best

Boltondave:

Craig_1591:

Anyone used of of these?

Yep. Although I have the Zorki-4K, it's essentially the same, the only real difference being the 4K has a wind-on lever. The model you have is known as a type 2, and was made for exporting. My only real gripe with these is the shutter speed dial, the settings are too near to each other to be really accurate. All that being said...

Keep the camera unfired for any length of time, and keep the shutter speed dial on 1/6th or faster. This is due to the way these cameras get the slower shutter speeds, the slower shutter speeds have to have some springs and/or cogs tensioned up. Once these are tensioned, keeping the shutter like this for any real length of time will strain the springs. And before anyone laughs at Russian camera designs, this is true for most mechanical cameras.

Also, before you set the shutter speed, wind on first. Once the shutter's fired, the selector dial will spin round to some other setting. This is normal, but will have the selector pointer pointing at the wrong setting. Wind on, the selector dial will rotate back to the last (and correct) shutter speed setting.

Focussing, as with any other Zorki, after the Zorki-2, is done with the split image in the viewfinder itself. Turn the focussing ring on the lens until both the split image and the actual viewfinder image line up. The lens is then in focus. Exposure? If you don't have a handheld light meter, use the "Sunny 16" (or "Sunny 11") methods. Set the lens aperture to f/16 (or f/11 for "Sunny 11"), set the shutter speed to the speed of your film, you're good to go.

The lens mount is known as LTM, or "Leica thread mount". Any LTM or L39 lens will fit the camera. Remember that the viewfinder is only set at 50mm, but there are multi-turret viewfinders available as accessories. Also remember that a few lenses don't have the necessary rangefinder focussing coupling, but these are mainly wide-angle lenses, really no need for accurate focussing with those lenses.

As you see, there's quite a bit to take in with a rangefinder camera. Visit the "FSU" section of the Rangfinder Forum... there's just so much more information available... including repairing the camera if need be.

damn you know your gear lol.

As for focusing, it has a yellow thing when you look through and no circle with the line through it.

Has a weird zoom thing on the left side i think that put things out of focus.  

Think my late grandad had a light meter somewhere...

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Craig_1591:

damn you know your gear lol.

It comes with the territory.

Craig_1591:

As for focusing, it has a yellow thing when you look through and no circle with the line through it.

Welcome to the world that existed before split-image focussing screens. The yellow "thing" should also look as though it has part of the scene in front of you. Turn the focussing ring on the lens, the image in the yellow dot will appear to move, the main viewfinder window will stay the same. Once the two images look like one, you're in focus.
Ah... rangefinder focussing... clicky here.

Craig_1591:

Has a weird zoom thing on the left side i think that put things out of focus.

That'll be the diopter adjuster. Yessir, a diopter adjuster. It's easily knocked, so get the main viewfinder display sharp and stick a small bit of insulating tape over the arm.

Fwiw, and if it's any consolation, the competition that Zorki faced (the FED (once known as the NKVD... have a read of the history of them sometime)) didn't have those focussing arms, they had a more secure diopter adjuster. The outside viewfinder ring itself was used, and would happily scratch any glasses worn by the users.

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Galleries: Monochrome : The best

Enough chat, some someone once had a habit of saying...


"Stumps"

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Galleries: Monochrome : The best

Nice pic Dave !

 

Here is one from the weekend. Image captured in Bodie, California

Not bad, "paullom".

Another one...

"Teefs"

Hmm... urbandictionary.com lists various meanings for "teef", some not pleasant. So, here's the meaning I was aiming for...

The word Teef refers to a persons big fat Gnashers or Dentures, normally the two biggest front teeth, also known as tombstones are targeted. If someone says you have big teef, it can be very insulting if used in a good sentence. Normally you would insult the largeness or goofyness of someones teef.

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Galleries: Monochrome : The best

Christine Iwancz:

I thought this might convert into a B&W to fit the theme. Not sure whether it works.

the tones are vry good, you are right it does suit b/w.

what badly lets it down is chopping the top of the spire off..

a couple of backward steps could have avoided this.. it could also be a little sharper,

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or
reflections

Almost BW.... i'm sure it counts though.  Taken a while back, but only just got round to processing.

Mike